Wednesday 30 October 2013

Alpine bearberry spectacle up on high

The 1st September was an interesting day.  Car packed early and off we went to Grantown on Spey to erect the tent and install tables and stands for Janet’s tweed crafts as we attended the annual Motormania event.  This event attracts mainly vintage cars from all over the country along with a few “boys with their modern toys” in the form of high performance Fords, Lotuses and even the odd Ferrari: one sitting proudly with its
Janet's tent/stall before the gale
rear bonnet open to show a pretty amazing engine.  With all town centre roads closed several thousand folk wandered up and down the High Street, side streets and car parks to admire the gathering of automobile history.  The day was very dull with rain threatening to fall and the breeze ensured that the tent was well pegged down before leaving Janet to test her selling skills with the visitors.  At about 2.30pm my mobile rang with Janet asking I get back to Grantown asap because a pole had broken and the tent was blowing down. 
Remember the old AA patrol man?
So, armed with brown parcel tape, extra rope, string and tent pegs I headed back to Motormania to see what I could do to help.  Most of the time the wind rattling the tent wasn’t too bad, but every so often a huge gust was funnelled up the High Street and the tent was being severely tested.  The adjacent tent had already collapsed and a few of the charity tents had been taken down ahead of being flattened.  I managed to add supports to the broken pole and went round the tent adding additional guy ropes and pegs in the hope that I had done enough to keep the tent in contact with the ground.  Not quite, and as the gale force gusts continued to batter the tent and, having lost a bit of shelter from the adjacent tent that had already collapsed, the flimsy multitude of uprights and cross-pieces which allow the tent to neatly fold to a central pillar decided they had had enough.  One by one poles and cross-pieces gave way and despite standing as an extra “pole”
A selection of the older cars on display
to support the side taking all the wind, we had to call it a day and as I continued in my “support” role, Janet packed everything away, admitting defeat.  Somehow we got the tent frame almost into its concertina shape though one upright had to be snapped off and many cross-pieces bent back into shape, and with everything back in the car we headed home.  The aluminium tent frame ended up in the local recycling centre and a bit of re-investment will be needed before the next outdoor event, but thankfully all of Janet’s goods survived apart from one set of bunting which I’d used to try and keep everything upright.  Overall though the day was a success with the biggest gathering of cars to date, a huge visitor attendance and Janet managing to sell a few of her amazing bags.

After arriving home I got a very worrying phone call from daughter Ruth.  She had been notified that the company covering Badenoch and Strathspey with houses, Allan Munro Construction, had applied for planning permission for three houses in a piece of woodland known as The Knoll, adjacent to the church hall where she is in charge of the Under 5’s playgroup.  The playgroup works to the principles of a “Forest School” meaning that almost every day the play leaders and Under 5’s leave the church hall to walk and explore the environs of local woods and fields.  The planning application was for houses in woodland the group use for most of their outings, an area of woodland which had already been much reduced by successful planning applications for four huge houses, all way outside the price range of local folk.  If the current application was to be successful there would be a real threat to the viability and continuity of the playgroup, so, having been on a couple of outings with the group and seeing how successfully it operated, I
The Under 5's Flower-top place + one of the new houses
thought I should visit the site to gather information for an objection to the application.  Ever since Ruth became playgroup leader she has been telling me about the loss of this particular woodland as more houses kept appearing and the last thing a playgroup leader needs to be doing is check the local paper every week for planning applications.  On visiting the woodland I was astounded that the houses built or in the process of being built had been allowed by Highland Council and more worryingly, the Cairngorm National Park Authority.  The wood comprises several ancient oaks, some willows and lots of birch, all growing on a knoll, and before the recent intrusion of new houses, was a small patch of woodland, already surrounded by houses.  In all senses of the word this had been “amenity” woodland, an area used by local kids to play and providing access from a group of 30-40 houses from an earlier development to other paths and pavements leading to the River Spey and the local post office.  The Park Authority had recently funded the up-grading of a “core path” running through the woodland but worryingly had allowed it to be diverted to avoid the
The Knoll woodland, as shown on the current Local Plan
LBS128 is the route of the old footpath
massive excavation into The Knoll for another of the Munro houses which, interestingly, had yet to be built.  So, routes of paths were GPS-ed and photos taken of the new houses along with photos of locations within the wood regularly used by the playgroup, Flower-top place, the Tardis and the huge fungus covered birch stump known as the Elephant’s foot.  The latter location had already been lost to the garden area of one of the new properties, the fate that Flower-top place would also suffer when another house nearing completion was fenced off.  How could a small patch of “amenity” woodland have been so badly degraded by housing?  Back home, as I prepared my letter of objection, I was able to find out, and the lack of any of the statutory bodies reacting to what was going on was quite worrying.  Highland Council now has an e-planning website so all recent planning applications for three of the four new houses can be looked at, the fourth amazingly, has been on the go since 2008 so falls outside the time when the e-planning site was set up.  The current application would see three houses built in a very elevated location on the top of The Knoll with a new road to be installed by cutting deeply into the northern edge of the woodland.  This road would have to cut across the new core path funded by the Park and across the path regularly used by the Under 5’s!  Fences delineating each house would run down the slope to meet the fences of the old houses comprising Railway
The same woodland area as last map showing new houses and
loss of woodland prior to current planning application.
Plots 1, 2 & 3 refer to current planning application.
Cottages, cutting off the route completely back to the roadside pavement used by the Under 5’s.  The location map for the current application interestingly, didn’t show any of the recent new houses.  Most worrying was that the planning application hadn’t been called in by the Park’s planners despite the houses removing any notion of “amenity woodland” for local folk.  Checking e-planning for the other new houses revealed that none of these either, had been called in by the Park Authority.  Checking the current Local Plan for Kincraig, an area designated for housing was shown to the north of the village, with no mention made to houses being acceptable in The Knoll woods.  All very odd!  So, my letter of objection was written to Highland Council and copied to the Park Authority, Dave Thompson our local MSP and to Danny Alexander our MP.  Ruth and the playgroup leaders and children were photographed by the local paper standing in the wood holding “Save our Wood” placards, and a meeting was organised by the Kincraig Community Council.  Lots of Kincraig folk objected and before Highland Council had to make a decision Munro Construction withdrew their application.  Hopefully, the now much reduced area of woodland can be legally designated as amenity for locals to enjoy and, just as important, the future of the local playgroup should now be assured despite them having to re-locate Flower-top Place.  The Scores on the Doors – 10/10 for the MSP and MP’s help but 0/10 for the Cairngorm National Park Authority for their complete lack of interest in the site, helping them retain my title of Cairngorm Tourism and Housing Authority. 

September saw the last of the butterfly transect visits, the 26th week of transect walks which started way back in April.  Once the cool, dry spring was passed we had what a lot of folk locally have been calling a “proper” summer.  There have been sunny periods and a spell in July when temperatures reached 30 degrees C, but most of all it has been incredibly dry, and checking with Strathspey Weather it is possible to see that, until 27 October this has been the driest year since 2003 if you compare the annual running total of millimetres of rainfall (Jan added to Feb etc). 

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
2001
20
66
108
148
164
212
296
391
448
569
622
687
2002
57
148
187
215
264
303
406
456
493
599
682
702
2003
86
107
141
199
266
291
324
354
389
470
496
582
2004
82
130
170
236
262
356
380
491
531
636
683
725
2005
109
196
242
292
364
436
454
516
544
674
779
807
2006
15
45
98
134
188
225
274
325
410
496
549
611
2007
57
91
151
163
252
360
465
536
597
626
732
788
2008
111
163
237
329
354
434
500
588
635
731
784
810
2009
26
98
170
197
247
301
423
500
569
666
777
884
2010
70
143
188
242
289
328
415
513
630
700
818
848
2011
41
96
167
194
265
356
465
607
662
712
748
847
2012
75
99
103
261
313
401
499
556
613
682
719
789
2013
35
67
87
126
192
246
283
329
366
420
-
-

With the summer of reasonable weather you would have thought butterflies would have responded but, overall, 2013 wasn’t a good year despite 23 of the 26 weeks transects being walked.  From the table you can see that of the regulars, green-veined whites showed the biggest increase and it was nice to see that small tortoiseshells also were up in numbers.  After their record breaking year in 2012, scotch argus numbers were more normal but at 11 species this was the lowest number for a few years.  Large heath and red admiral were seen, but not on one of the transects.  Better management of the roadside verges along the moor
Loch Garten butterfly transect data 2013
section could be beneficial as would a reduction in woodland development on the moor itself.  Grazing rather than heather burning would also help, but with no real stock retained by the farmers with common grazing rights, this is probably not an option.  I have asked whether vegetation cutting could be trialled, especially near to the transect.  Perhaps the most amazing sight this year was the 30-odd green-vein whites flying over the first ever corn crop on the farm section of the transect, accompanied by a few small tortoiseshells and the only meadow brown seen this year.  The link below takes you to the Butterfly Conservation website but there is data missing for April 2012, there is no data as yet for 2013.

Way back in January I made a rash decision.  After giving a talk to the Grantown U3A group I was asked about leading a walk to see some of the Abernethy fungi.  I explained that I wasn’t an expert on fungi in general but would be happy to take them to see some of the tooth fungi that I had surveyed and was confident at being able to identify.  And so it was that the date arrange came into view at the start of the month.  As we arrived back from holiday at the end of August the first thing I did was to go and have a look at one of the local tracks where tooth fungi usually
The hoursehair parachute Marasmius androsaceus
growing  from a cone was also found
fruited in good numbers.  However, with the dry summer few had appeared so a bit of frantic searching was undertaken so see if there were at least a few species to make the visit worth their while.  Sadly, with common species like Hydnellum peckii missing it wouldn’t be possible to see regular species side by side to compare and note differences but after looking around enough species were found to make the visit possible.  A single H. peckii was found along with quite a few Bankera fuligineoalba.  An impressive Hydnellum caeruleum was also present as was Hydnellum scrobiculatum a species that is still going through the DNA checking process to arrive at its true identity.  We finished off with a tiny patch of Phellodon melaleucus close to a nest of bumblebees which had been dug out by a badger.  As we were
Sarcodon glaucopus
found after the U3A visit!
making our way back along the track I was drawn into an area of what would normally be a small pool to let the visitors see an unusual sedge for this type of area, Carex aquatilis (Northern Sedge), normally found along the River Spey and the extensive river-side marsh lands.  There was something odd about the sedge and when the visitors had gone I went back to the pool, now dried out due to the prolonged spell without rain.  At one end of the pool this sedge stood very tall, taller than normal, whilst further up the pool the same(?) sedge was growing but at about half the height of the first and I began to think of one of the clumps as being a hybrid.  This would involve samples being sent to an expert but first I thought it best to involve botanist Andy who agreed that one patch looked like true Carex aquatilis and the other the hybrid between C. aquatilis and C. nigra = Carex x hibernica.  All very confusing.  Also, in the same pool another sedge looked a bit odd and I seemed to remember Andy saying that there was already a hybrid sedge growing in this pool.  This sedge looked like Carex vesicaria (bladder sedge), a species that has so far not been found in Abernethy, and sure enough, when I checked the database the sedge turned out to be the hybrid between Carex vesicaria and Carex rostrata (bottle sedge) turning it into Carex x involuta.  The pool is full of bottle sedge but where was the bladder sedge with which it had hybridised?  One for the future.  More intriguing was the hybrid sedge flower head was covered with black
Bladder sedge left & bottle sedge on
the right complete with smut fungus
balls of the Anthracoidea smut fungus mentioned last month, a fungus which is usually faithful to the sedge species it is growing on, so would this one be bottle or bladder sedge?  One for Kew to try and sort.  About half of all the bottle sedge flower heads were also infected with the fungus which will probably turn out to be Anthracoidea subinclusa once the experts have checked it.  From the books the bladder sedge looked to be quite a bonny and distinct sedge so I thought it would be worth having a look for it, though my first encounter was totally by accident.  Re-visiting The Knoll housing site I had a bit of time to spare before going on to see daughter Ruth so I popped into an interesting boggy area surrounded on the drier ground with mature oaks on the edge of the River Spey.  In amongst the vast stands of Northern sedge I could see what looked like a very heavy headed bottle sedge which, on closer inspection, turned out to be bladder sedge.  Also nearby was lots of bottle sedge so it was easy to see the differences between the two species.  Again the bottle sedge had the smut fungus present.  In amongst a group of willow bushes I came across a population of Carex lasiocarpa,
Carex lasiocarpa with
smut fungus
a tall graceful sedge as its name, slender sedge, implies.  Though found through quite a bit of the UK, this sedge is more commonly found “up north”, with good populations in various parts of the Abernethy Reserve.  Was it possible that this sedge could also have been infected by the smut fungus?  I was hoping that no one was watching as I wandered back and forth amongst the sedge that almost
Spores of smut fungus on
Carex lasiocarpa
reached my waist, regularly bending over to check the flower heads.  Bingo, several heads of the sedge were found with the fungus, so a few were carefully collected for checking once home.  Under the microscope the spores looked different to the ones found on the other sedges to date and didn’t look like the A. subinclusa fungus (found on the bottle sedge) as listed currently in the literature as being the species associated with this sedge.  The message from Kew suggests that it probably is different and might, just might, be new to the UK so watch this space.

As a change to searching through sedge beds I thought I would have a day out trying to re-locate a patch of alpine bearberry (Arctostaphylos alpinus) last seen in 1995 by a friend Sandy Payne.  The location was close to the Chalamain Gap, the footpath linking the Cairngorm road to the Lairig Ghru and the location for a sad loss of life during last winters snows.  The start of the path takes you past the reindeer enclosure and as
Northern Corries from Chalamain Gap path
the path rises you get an amazing view of the Northern Corries below the Cairngorm Plateau.  Ahead, the deep cut which is the actual “Gap” beckoned but as I approached its entrance my route took me up onto the lower slopes of Lurcher’s Crag to begin my search.  September is the best time to search for this rare plant locally because at this time of year the leaves turn a vivid red allowing areas of suitable hillside to be scanned with binoculars.  I had a rough, pre-GPS location, but the vegetation in that area just wasn’t suitable (the
Alpine bearberry
plant needs dry, wind-clipped heath, usually with common bearberry) so the normal wandering back and forward searching started.  It took about an hour but eventually a few red erect leaves appeared under-foot and for the first time in a few years details of the site, patch size etc could be forwarded to the records people.  Inspired, I started to wander back and forth whilst slowly heading up hill until eventually it was obvious that I was outside the 700-800 metre asl zone in which the plant is normally found so the search changed to looking for montane lichens.  It was a nice day so the aim changed again and before too long I was, for the first time, on the summit of Lurcher’s Crag with brilliant views all across the Cairngorms and beyond.  On the way up I actually saw some ptarmigan rather than just hear them as on
Looking into the Lairig Ghru from
Lurcher's Crag
earlier outings, and an odd looking growth on a clump of Vaccinium uliginosum (Northern blaeberry) ensured there would be a little homework later in the day.  More about that next month.  I descended so that I was on the Lairig Ghru side of the Chalamain Gap, enabling my first scramble through the “Gap”, hopping carefully from boulder to boulder all the way through.  Quite an amazing place.

The patch of alpine bearberry on the last outing was about 3 x 7 metres in size and though reasonably red, it wasn’t as impressive as it should have been so another outing was planned.  In 2006 I found a couple of patches of the plant on hills to the north of what is known locally as The Burma Road, a track running from Lynwilg near Aviemore over to the River Dulnain, and I had read somewhere that there could be more.  With a good weather forecast I drove up through the High Burnside housing development, trying to find the start of the track I knew would take me up the Milton Burn, through the ancient pines and out to
Red waxcap, possibly Hygrocybe miniata
the open hill, an alternative to the Burma Road.  The track petered out at the deer fence so the rest of the day would involve cross country walking through heather and patches of amazingly coloured deer grass (Tricophorum spp.).  A red waxcap in a bog was worth noting and is probably the same species found in South Uist, and in a few damp areas plants of dwarf cornel were resplendent with red berries and late summer leaves.  It was hot, almost windless and clear as a bell and the hill-top ridge was reached just in time
The unbelievable alpine bearberry
for lunch, though lunch for me means rucksac off and with sandwich in hand, the search for the alpine bearberry started.  The habitat looked right and my GPS told me I was just above the 700 metre contour, and right on cue a tiny patch of red leaves came into view and by the time my mobile lunch was finished, three patches of the bearberry had been found, most with nice red leaves.  A scan with binoculars found another couple of patches but way in the distance several square metres of the hillside was bright red, a truly amazing sight.  Eventually my walking back and forth searching brought me to the big patch and the next twenty minutes were spent taking photos of the flowers (well leaves) from all angles, including some back-lit by the sun.  Without the sun the real beauty of this plant wouldn’t have been seen at its best and as the sun
The Northern Corries & the Cairngorms at the end of
an unforgettable day out
continued to shine more and more patches of the plant were found.  19 patches in all were counted covering about 350 square metres, the biggest 17 x 12 metres,  and I have no doubt there would have been more if I’d had time to search the east side of the summit.  With the clock telling me it was just after 5pm I had to make a phone call home to apologise and to say I was going to be late.  Full sun, no wind, the brilliant alpine bearberry and in the distance the corries of the Cairngorms were just starting to cast shadows, it was hard to make the decision to head for home.  But it was time to say cheerio to the inquisitive mountain hares and time to chase my lengthening shadow down the hill after a brilliant day up on high.

Enjoy the read.
Stewart and Janet

Strathspey Weather
Butterfly Transect data

Baby Harry's first visit to Firwood
Peacock butterfly also at Firwood but not seen on the transect
Ink caps on cow pat!
One of the bigger versions of THE TICK.
13 of these blighters pulled from body after one local outing! 
 Photos © Stewart Taylor